- 2*lid support
- 1*Allen key
- 1*insallation manual
*The price is the basic wholesale price, not the final price. It needs to be recalculated according to the purchase quantity and delivery location. Please inquire for specific price.
√ We own local warehouse in US, CA, UK, EU, JP. And our biggest warehouse locate in China. We can offer 7 days air shipping or 30-40 sea shipping for bulk order.
√ We offer 18 month warranty & life time technical support.
Hugh Hazle –
Very simple and nice looking device. Here’s a negative; I bought two pairs. All arrived fine but one set had a “moving end” mounting bracket (the one with the 90 degree bend) with no pin and therefore no little gray plastic retainer grommet. As is it is unusable. How can I obtain a replacement for this bracket?
Gayle Frankenberg –
Used to keep up the small cabinet doors on my camper. Worked well but do come loose once in a while
Easy to install. Looks well made. Lid on chest that I used in on is a bit heavier then the max 40 lbs so it does not work as well as I would like. My fault totally. Should have gotten a hinge to carry more weight. Otherwise a great item.
Instructional diagrams are somewhat confusing, but was able to make sense of it. I did a mock installation using various positions to determine how much swing I get from various positions. I was able to achieve an installation not conveyed by the diagrams. Trial and error by clamping pieces onto sample boards prior to real installation is helpful. Once installed I was very pleased with the operation.
Jerry Roe –
Made a toybox for my grandaughter! No smashed fingers!
Instructions not clear, look on line for clear instructions
D. Salish –
Check you space available since it is bigger than you might think and it needs to fit correctly. Operation is semi-smooth.
T. Dubbs –
Excellent , heavy duty hinge product for expensive and heavy duty Tack Trunk made of wood and metal. Just a bit overwhelmed in slowing down the drop of the lid due to weight but excellent regardless.
These hinges work well — but be forewarned: the instructions are HORRIBLE. One small piece of paper with confusing, badly translated directions and bad diagrams. I finally deciphered them, which took longer than the installation itself. To save others from the same fate, I’ll attempt to provide better ones here. Note these are for an installation like mine, which was in a cabinet over an oven hood with a top-hinged door that swung open upward. I chose to use two hinges — one on each side — but you may be able to get away with one, depending on the size and weight of your door. READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING! (I’M NOT WITH THE MANUFACTURER, so no guarantees; follow these instructions at your own risk):
1. There are two mounting pieces: one side-mounting piece (A) for the inside wall of your cabinet and the other a top-mounting piece (B) for the inside of your cabinet door. (Hint: the arm of piece A is longer than the arm of piece B.)
IF YOUR DOOR OVERLAPS THE CABINET FRAME (OVERLAY STYLE)…
2. On the inside cabinet wall, mark two points for drilling holes: one 38mm in from the front edge of the cabinet and 160 mm down from the inside top of your cabinet, and the second exactly 32mm below the first one.
3. Measure the amount of overlap for your cabinet door in millimeters. If installing 2 hinges, note that it may be different on each side. Take that overlap dimension and add 12 to it to get inset dimension X. On the inside of the door, mark two points for drilling holes: one Xmm in from the side edge and 90mm from the top edge and another Xmm x 122mm.
IF YOUR DOOR IS SET INSIDE THE CABINET FRAME (FLUSH MOUNT STYLE)…
2. Measure the thickness of your cabinet door in millimeters. Add 38 to it to get inset dimension X. On the inside cabinet wall, mark two points for drilling holes: one Xmm in from the front edge of the cabinet and 160 mm down from the inside top of your cabinet, and the second exactly 32mm below the first one.
3. On the inside of the door, mark two points for drilling holes: one 12mm in from the side edge and 90mm from the top edge and another 12mm x 122mm.
FOR EITHER STYLE OF CABINET:
4. Drill 1/8″ pilot holes for all four points, being careful not to drill too deeply so you don’t drill clean through the door or cabinet wall.
5. Screw each mounting bracket into its respective place. The one on the inside cabinet wall should be oriented so that it protrudes out toward the door. The one on the inside of the door should be oriented so that the screws are toward the inside of the cabinet.
6. Snap each end of the arm onto the mounting brackets so that the arm scissors inward when closing. The allen wrench hole for making tension adjustment should be facing outward. There’s a little tab on each plastic hub of the mounting brackets. As you snap the arm on, make sure you rotate the plastic hub so that the tab fits into the indentation on the end of the arm, approx. 180 degrees away from the arm.
7. Adjust tension as needed with supplied allen wrench.
That’s it. Easy job if you have the right instructions.
Schlauch Sr. –
Was able to reverse the action of the hinges to a soft extension rather than a soft retraction as they come. Used on a drop open door rather than a lift lid or door… Could use better instructions on how to adjust and otherwise change the operation of the hinges…